We perfectly planned the bucketlist trip to Hawaii=) All set for December 8-15, 2015. The Billabong masters is during the same week we will be on the north shore!
Since 1984, it has been my dream to attend a surf competition! And not only have I added that to this years bucket list, but I truly believe I will be ready to surf some tini wini waves in the new future… LOL a little face plant- surfing… sound fun right? Even if it may not be for me, got to mark it off the 40 year bucket list!!
The science of waves breaking is quite straight forward. Each wavelength has a crest (the top) and a trough (the bottom), which happily travel across the sea together at the same speed until the trough is slowed down by the friction of moving against the bottom of the sea. At this point the crest of the wave is unaffected and overtakes the trough which we see as the wave breaking. The extent to which the top of the wave overtakes the bottom generating what is known as a lip is dependent on the size of the wave and the severity with which the trough is slowed down by the sea floor. There are three types of breaking wave:
- Beach Break – exactly what you might imagine. The waves break when they are slowed down by the seashore regardless of what that shore consists of. E.g. sand, rock, vegetation.
- Point Break – no bank robbing or FBI involved here just something sticking out into the water like a jetty or pier or most frequently the cliffs at the side of a bay. The water breaks on the shallow water by the point and then peels off toward the water adjacent to it on the left or right.
- Reef Break – typically a coral reef but hardy souls such as myself are more used to rock shelves in the colder waters of the northern hemisphere. However reefs can also be man-made such as a shipwreck or the artificial reefs that have been installed at a few locations around the planet specifically to make wave break in a predictable manner
Check out this clip from last years Billabong Master>
And for 2016, love to hit Australia and Fiji.. Oh ya! Life just gets better with Vitamin Sea in it..
Keep calm and Surf On! See you at one of the beaches of the word! Cindy- Bucket List Coach